There are not many beaches left in the world where you can ride a horse for miles without meeting a soul. Pearly Beach is one of them.
It lies on the Overberg coast south-east of Gansbaai, about an hour along the coast from my home in Hermanus: a long, untouched curve of white sand, dunes covered in fynbos, and the Atlantic rolling in. No cars are allowed on the beach, so there is nothing out there but the horses, the birds and the sea.
Sarah and Kos Coronaios run their horse trails from a small farm just behind the dunes. Sarah has been riding, teaching and guiding for more than thirty-five years and leads every trail herself, while Kos rides along with his camera. Most of their horses came to them from hard beginnings, and they match each guest to the right one. The moment that stays with everyone is the swim: riding out into the sea until your horse's hooves leave the sand and it simply swims, with you on its back.
John Sparks
Pearly Beach on film
Ways to ride
The beach trail
The favourite. From the farm through the dune forest and out onto the beach, with a canter or a gallop for those who want one, and a swim with the horses when the sea allows. It follows the low tide, so the time changes from day to day.
The sundowner trail
Out along the sand in the late afternoon as the sky turns gold and pink, with a drink and something to eat on the beach as the sun goes down.
Bubbles on the beach
For a proposal, an anniversary or a birthday, the champagne trail ends at a quiet spot on the sand with a glass of bubbly before the ride home.
The mountain fynbos trail
Inland through the proteas and fynbos to a clear mountain dam, with views of the sea and the call of the fish eagle. Ridden in the cooler months, from May to October.
Under the full moon
Once a month, for confident riders, there is a ride at sunset that carries on under the rising full moon.
Stars over the farm
Kos is a keen astronomer with his own observatory on the farm. Far from any city lights, the southern sky here is extraordinary.
The beach ride, the way I like it
Follow the tide
The beach trail goes out at low tide, so we plan the day around it. Often that means a morning ride and a long lunch afterwards.
Meet your horse
Sarah asks about your riding, then pairs you with the horse that suits you, from the gentle old lady of the herd to the ones who love to run.
Into the sea
Wear your swimming costume underneath. When the conditions are right, you ride out into the waves and swim with your horse. It is one of the most joyful things I know.
Keep the memories
Kos photographs and films the ride as you go, so you can simply enjoy it and still go home with the pictures.
Photographs and videos to keep
Thirty-two photographs from the saddle, the sea and the air, to view large and download, and the Pearly Beach films on YouTube.
Open the gallery ↗The moment your horse's hooves leave the sand, and it simply swims.
Before you go
Where
On a farm just off the R43, about 21 kilometres south-east of Gansbaai, at the turn-off to Pearly Beach. About an hour from Hermanus.
Who can ride
Beginners and experienced riders alike, from eight years old. For the horses' sake there is a strict weight limit of 95 kg, and everyone is weighed on arrival.
What to wear
Close-fitting long trousers or leggings, closed shoes, a windbreaker, and swimwear underneath for the beach trail. A riding helmet is provided and must be worn.
Weather
The sea and the wind decide whether we swim. If the weather closes in, we move the ride to another day.
Pairs well with
A few days in Hermanus, great white shark diving at Gansbaai, and a stay at Grootbos nearby.
Photographs courtesy of Pearly Beach Horse Trails. The main film is our own.